So, when I last wrote, I was in Luang Prabang, where it might be argued I was not making the best of my time--mostly reading, taking walks, and eating baguettes.Now, I'm in Chiang Rai. I have no tourist map, guide, and little idea of what there is to do or see here. I'll figure it out--no worries!!
Here are a list of things I've done since then the last time I posted:
1. I went to Nong Kwiah (sp?), a tiny, charmless, village about three hours out of Luang Prabang. It rained. I chilled out on the hammock in front of my $7 bungalow, watched Muay Thai, and spent an evening drinking with some other travelers. Also, I looked at chickens. Lao chickens are very fast.
Here's the view from my hammock. It was very foggy and rainy.
2. I took a two-day "luxury cruise" from Luang Prabang to Houay Xai (sp?) on the Lao border. Good the boat was covered because it rained! With the exception of a young European couple who didn't talk to anyone, and couldn't keep their hands off each other (poor taste anywhere, but especially poor taste in SE Asia) and left after one day, everyone was substantially older than me. There was a pack of surprisingly unhealthy-appearing pack of Australians doing a 2-week food tour of Lao and Thailand (5k!!) and their charming guide. There were two not-affiliated-with-the-food-tour, charming, Australian women with confusingly similar names. There was an English IT professional who actually used the word "chap" with no trace of self-consciousness. The boat was pleasant, food meh but fancy, the lodge where we stayed overnight somewhat over-the-top, in a fancy eco-lodge sort of way. I took pictures for my mom, but am not going to post them. We made several stops along the way, at some poor villages, one Lao and Khmu, the other Hmong. The contrast was extreme. (I was going to upload more pics, but computer very slow.) As our guide droned on about animistic and educational practices of the Hmong villagers (most of my fellow passengers ignored him and took photos of the children who had surrounded us), tree boys came over, holding small birds. The guide took one, explained that the children were going to eat the birds, and casually broke it's neck before handing it back to the child (who immediately began plucking it). Very dramatic!! We all looked suspiciously at the other boys and their birds, hoping they wouldn't slaughter them in front of us. One of the Australians demanded that they let the birds go, but she was ignored.
3. I rode from Chiang Kong (Thai border) to Chiang Rai over two days, with a night in the completely untouristy Meng Rai. Two days of fortunately overcast skies, reasonable distances (70 km and 50 km) and LOTS of rice paddies. Meng Rai was the first place I believe, that I was actually charged local prices for food at the market. Dumplings for 10 baht, fried pork for 10 baht, watermelon and mystery food in banana leaf for 10 baht. Then, a handful of longans off the tree, from the lovely proprietess of my guesthouse.
Regarding the mystery food steamed in banana leaf, I opened it and thought it looked like zucchini (which I thought odd, but whatever). You can imagine my shock when it turned out to be fish (bone-in, natch).
I'm done with the biking part of the ride, other than day trips. I'll get up to some deviltry, but have not yet determined what kind. Actually, I have, but I'M NOT TELLING YET.
Two more weeks!!
XOXOX
Here are a list of things I've done since then the last time I posted:
1. I went to Nong Kwiah (sp?), a tiny, charmless, village about three hours out of Luang Prabang. It rained. I chilled out on the hammock in front of my $7 bungalow, watched Muay Thai, and spent an evening drinking with some other travelers. Also, I looked at chickens. Lao chickens are very fast.
Here's the view from my hammock. It was very foggy and rainy.
2. I took a two-day "luxury cruise" from Luang Prabang to Houay Xai (sp?) on the Lao border. Good the boat was covered because it rained! With the exception of a young European couple who didn't talk to anyone, and couldn't keep their hands off each other (poor taste anywhere, but especially poor taste in SE Asia) and left after one day, everyone was substantially older than me. There was a pack of surprisingly unhealthy-appearing pack of Australians doing a 2-week food tour of Lao and Thailand (5k!!) and their charming guide. There were two not-affiliated-with-the-food-tour, charming, Australian women with confusingly similar names. There was an English IT professional who actually used the word "chap" with no trace of self-consciousness. The boat was pleasant, food meh but fancy, the lodge where we stayed overnight somewhat over-the-top, in a fancy eco-lodge sort of way. I took pictures for my mom, but am not going to post them. We made several stops along the way, at some poor villages, one Lao and Khmu, the other Hmong. The contrast was extreme. (I was going to upload more pics, but computer very slow.) As our guide droned on about animistic and educational practices of the Hmong villagers (most of my fellow passengers ignored him and took photos of the children who had surrounded us), tree boys came over, holding small birds. The guide took one, explained that the children were going to eat the birds, and casually broke it's neck before handing it back to the child (who immediately began plucking it). Very dramatic!! We all looked suspiciously at the other boys and their birds, hoping they wouldn't slaughter them in front of us. One of the Australians demanded that they let the birds go, but she was ignored.
3. I rode from Chiang Kong (Thai border) to Chiang Rai over two days, with a night in the completely untouristy Meng Rai. Two days of fortunately overcast skies, reasonable distances (70 km and 50 km) and LOTS of rice paddies. Meng Rai was the first place I believe, that I was actually charged local prices for food at the market. Dumplings for 10 baht, fried pork for 10 baht, watermelon and mystery food in banana leaf for 10 baht. Then, a handful of longans off the tree, from the lovely proprietess of my guesthouse.
Regarding the mystery food steamed in banana leaf, I opened it and thought it looked like zucchini (which I thought odd, but whatever). You can imagine my shock when it turned out to be fish (bone-in, natch).
I'm done with the biking part of the ride, other than day trips. I'll get up to some deviltry, but have not yet determined what kind. Actually, I have, but I'M NOT TELLING YET.
Two more weeks!!
XOXOX
ahh, that food looks wonderful. i've really been enjoying reading this blog. looking forward to hearing about the deviltry. -janet
ReplyDelete